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Leather guide
The Zodiac Leather Guide: Types of Leather for Bags
Every Zodiac Leather bag is described by three things: the grade of the leather, the hide it comes from, and the finish applied to it. This guide explains all seven leathers we make bags in, how each one looks and ages, and which of our 101 bags use it, so you can choose by how you carry rather than by a label.
Grade, hide and finish: how to read our product names
A leather's grade tells you which layer of the hide was used, the hide tells you which animal it came from, and the finish tells you how the surface was treated. They are separate, so one bag can be full grain, buffalo and hunter at the same time.
Example: the Ezra laptop bag
Ezra
Full Grain
Hunter
Leather Laptop Bag – Mulberry –
Buffalo
Leather
GRADE
Which layer
Full grain
HIDE
Which animal
Buffalo · Cowhide · Goat
FINISH
Which surface
Crazy horse · Hunter · Croc-embossed
Grade
Full grain leather
Full grain leather is the top layer of the hide, left uncorrected, so the natural grain, small marks and pores stay visible. Because nothing has been sanded away, it is the strongest layer and the one that develops a patina, the deeper colour and soft shine that come with use.
How it looks
Visible grain; small natural marks are part of the leather, not faults.
How it ages
Darkens and softens where you hold and rub it most: handles, edges, the front flap.
Best for
A bag you plan to carry for years and want to look more like yours over time.
What we make in it
47 bags, including briefcases, laptop bags, backpacks, messengers and slings, across buffalo, cowhide and goat hides.
Hide
Buffalo leather
Buffalo leather is a thick hide with a pronounced, slightly pebbled grain, and it is the hide most of our bags are made from. Buffalo hide is typically thicker than cowhide, which is why we use it for bags that carry weight: briefcases, duffles and laptop bags.
How it looks
A bolder, more visible grain than cowhide.
How it ages
Holds its shape; the colour deepens along edges and handles.
Best for
Heavy daily loads, travel, and anyone who wants a structured bag.
What we make in it
81 bags, including every hunter-finish bag we sell and five of our six croc-embossed bags.
Hide
Cowhide leather
Cowhide leather has a smoother, more even grain than buffalo, which gives a cleaner, more uniform surface. It takes finishes well, which is why our crazy horse backpacks are cowhide.
How it looks
Smooth and consistent from panel to panel.
How it ages
Softens with use; finished cowhide (like crazy horse) shows wear marks that become part of its character.
Best for
A neater, dressier look, and smaller pieces such as wallets.
What we make in it
17 bags, among them the Executive and James briefcases, the Diego and Jason backpacks, the Marie, Cartera and Bolsa wallets, the Sofia tote and the woven Abra duffle.
Hide
Goat leather
Goat leather is a lighter hide with a fine, natural grain, and it is the leather we use when a bag needs to feel lighter in the hand. Five of our seven goat leather bags are full grain.
How it looks
Fine grain with a soft, semi-gloss surface.
How it ages
Stays supple; small scuffs are less visible on the grain.
Best for
Slings and everyday bags you wear for hours.
What we make in it
7 bags: the Mateo, Vintage and Laelia slings, the Classic messenger, the Historic and Harry backpacks, and the Jace briefcase.
Finish
Crazy horse leather
Crazy horse leather is a waxed finish: when you scratch or press it, the mark turns lighter, and it fades back as the wax settles. That changing surface is the point of it. No two crazy horse bags look the same after a few months.
How it looks
Rich colour with a waxy, slightly matte surface.
How it ages
Faster and more visibly than any other leather we use.
Best for
People who like a bag that shows its history.
What we make in it
6 backpacks, all on cowhide: the Diego in five colours and the Jason.
Finish
Hunter leather
Hunter leather is a rugged, vintage-look finish applied to buffalo hide, with uneven tone and a worn-in look from day one. Every hunter bag we make is buffalo, and all but one are full grain.
How it looks
Already lived-in, with tonal variation across the surface.
How it ages
The vintage look deepens; new marks blend in with the existing texture.
Best for
A bag that looks broken-in without waiting years.
What we make in it
8 bags: the Ezra and Rover laptop bags, the Retro and Raw briefcases, and a travel sling.
Finish
Croc-embossed leather
Croc-embossed leather is cow or buffalo hide with a crocodile-style pattern pressed into the surface. It is not crocodile skin. The pattern adds texture and helps hide everyday scuffs.
How it looks
Raised scale pattern with a slight sheen.
How it ages
The pattern holds; wipe the grooves clean with a soft dry brush.
Best for
A bag that stands out and stays neat with little care.
What we make in it
6 bags: the Luca and Amor backpacks (two colours each) and the Office briefcase, all on buffalo, and the Sofia tote on cowhide.
The seven leathers compared
| Leather | Type | Surface | How it changes with use | Our bags |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full grain | Grade | Natural grain, visible marks | Develops a patina | 47 |
| Buffalo | Hide | Thick, pronounced grain | Holds shape, darkens at edges | 81 |
| Cowhide | Hide | Smooth, even grain | Softens | 17 |
| Goat | Hide | Fine grain, semi-gloss | Stays supple | 7 |
| Crazy horse | Finish | Waxed | Marks lighten, then fade | 6 |
| Hunter | Finish | Vintage, uneven tone | Wear blends in | 8 |
| Croc-embossed | Finish | Pressed scale pattern | Pattern holds | 6 |
Which leather is best for your bag?
The best type of leather for a bag depends on what you put in it and how you want it to look in two years.
By occasion · for men and women
Work
A work bag has to hold its shape around a laptop and papers. Most of our 13 work bags are full grain buffalo briefcases and laptop bags; the cowhide Executive and James briefcases give a smoother, dressier surface.
Full grain buffaloCowhideGoat (Jace)
Shop 13 work bags →
Travel
Travel bags take knocks in boots, overhead bins and car seats. Buffalo carries most of our 36 travel bags, the duffles especially; the crazy horse cowhide backpacks are for travellers who want the bag to record the trip.
BuffaloCrazy horseCroc-embossed
Shop 36 travel bags →
Everyday
An everyday bag is worn for hours, so weight matters most. Our 8 everyday bags lean light: goat leather crossbodies, buffalo backpacks and a tote, and a cowhide wallet with a phone pocket.
GoatBuffaloCowhide
Shop 8 everyday bags →
By look
You want it to change visibly
Crazy horse
You want it broken-in now
Hunter
Texture with little upkeep
Croc-embossed
Buffalo leather vs cowhide
Buffalo leather is generally thicker with a bolder grain, so it suits structured bags that carry weight. Cowhide is smoother and more even, so it suits a neater look and smaller pieces. Neither is simply better: choose buffalo for strength and structure, cowhide for a cleaner surface.
Buffalo
- Typically thicker, with a bold, visible grain
- Holds the shape of a loaded briefcase or duffle
- Most of our briefcases and duffles
Cowhide
- Smoother, more even grain
- A neater, dressier surface; takes finishes well
- Our wallets and crazy horse backpacks
Caring for your leather bag
Leather lasts longest when it stays clean, dry and conditioned, whichever type you choose.
- 01Wipe off dust with a soft dry cloth; brush croc-embossed grooves with a soft brush.
- 02If the bag gets wet, let it dry at room temperature, away from heaters and direct sun.
- 03Condition two or three times a year with a leather conditioner; test a hidden spot first.
- 04On crazy horse leather, rub a light scratch with your fingertip. The warmth helps the wax settle.
- 05Store the bag stuffed with paper, in a breathable dust bag, not plastic.
Leather and your zodiac sign
Pick the leather, then find it in your sign
Our sign collections are put together by colour palette, bag style and the traits of each sign, so leather type is not part of the match. Choose the leather that suits how the bag will be carried, then look for it in that sign's collection.
Leather guide FAQ
What is the best type of leather for a bag?
For a bag you will use every day for years, full grain leather is the most durable choice because it keeps the strongest top layer of the hide. Within full grain, buffalo suits heavier bags and goat suits lighter ones.
Is buffalo leather better than cowhide?
Buffalo is typically thicker with a bolder grain, which makes it better for structured bags that carry weight. Cowhide is smoother and more uniform. The better choice depends on the bag and the look you want.
Is croc-embossed leather real crocodile?
No. Croc-embossed leather is cow or buffalo hide with a crocodile-style pattern pressed into it. None of our bags use exotic skins.
Does crazy horse leather scratch easily?
Yes, and that is by design. Scratches show as lighter marks at first and fade as the wax settles; over time they become part of the bag's look.
What is the difference between grade, hide and finish?
Grade is the layer of the hide used, hide is the animal it came from, and finish is how the surface was treated. One bag can have all three, for example full grain buffalo with a hunter finish.
Are Zodiac Leather bags handmade?
Yes. Every Zodiac Leather bag is handmade.